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Removing ceramic tiles from a plastered brick wall
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Treacodactyl
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Joined: 28 Oct 2004
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Location: Jumping on the bandwagon of opportunism
PostPosted: Sun Nov 14, 04 8:34 am    Post subject:  Reply with quote    

I think we should start a new thread and see what kinds of adverts we can get up. I must go and have a look in the shooting section....

jema
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Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 26648
Location: escaped from Swindon
PostPosted: Mon Nov 15, 04 2:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote    

As always we manage to rationalise doing what we want to do

So I have made a start, just around the waste stack, where there appeared to be a shortage of a couple of cm or so, as I want to get 120cm of units along the wall. I Still can't get a good enough look to accurately measure, but I'm very pleased to see there is quite a cavernous space, maybe 6cm or so

Even allowing for the usual little nasties like sloping walls, an estimated 4cm of leeway should be more than enough

jema

jema
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Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 26648
Location: escaped from Swindon
PostPosted: Tue Nov 16, 04 9:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote    

Just got the Demolition hammer (and goggles) This is a real "boys toy" Ferm may be cheap, but this is a damn heavy contraption

jema

alison
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Joined: 29 Oct 2004
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Location: North Devon
PostPosted: Tue Nov 16, 04 10:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote    

Make sure you have plenty of rests, as when your arms start aching you will tend to dig into the plaster too much

Gervase



Joined: 17 Nov 2004
Posts: 8655

PostPosted: Thu Nov 18, 04 10:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote    

A bolster and light club hammer will do the job nicely if you don't fancy forking out for the power tool. Keep the angle of attack nice and shallow and the tiles should ping off fairly easily. Whatever you use, though, the underlying plaster will be scored to some extent, so think about a skim coat. On a flat, vertical surface it isn't that difficult.
Score the wall first with a devil float - a piece of wood with three masonry nails banged through to protrude a couple of mm will do. That will provide a key for the plaster. Wipe down the surface with a damp cloth to remove dust and reduce suction. Make the mix slightly stiff and use a good stainless steel float - spread it on starting from the top of the work to be covered and working from left to right (if you're right-handed - reverse the direction for southpaws).
When the mix starts to set you can begin the polishing, again using a clean float frequently wiped with a damp rag to stop it from pulling the plaster. Use broad, semicircular sweeps with medium pressure, and keep the float angled very slightly so the leading edge is just above the plaster so as not to gouge out your lovely new surface.
Plastering's one of those trades that takes minutes to acquire and decades to master, but if you're not planning to do hundreds of square feet in a day there's no reason why you shouldn't achieve decent results yourself and get a great deal of satisfaction in the process.

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