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mochyn



Joined: 21 Dec 2004
Posts: 24581
Location: mid-Wales
PostPosted: Tue Aug 19, 08 11:23 am    Post subject:  Reply with quote    

All I was thinking was that there would be a shorter length of "spare wire" as it were and perhaps easier to manipulate.

The thing to remember thought is that the technique that works best for you is the right technique.

BahamaMama



Joined: 21 Sep 2006
Posts: 2315
Location: Away with the fairies
PostPosted: Tue Aug 19, 08 11:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote    

Technique - is that like wrestling with wool?

mochyn



Joined: 21 Dec 2004
Posts: 24581
Location: mid-Wales
PostPosted: Tue Aug 19, 08 11:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote    

BahamaMama wrote:
Technique - is that like wrestling with wool?


That's EXACTLY what it's like!

I do quite a lot of it...

BahamaMama



Joined: 21 Sep 2006
Posts: 2315
Location: Away with the fairies
PostPosted: Tue Aug 19, 08 11:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote    

In that case I must have got the hang of it

Tay



Joined: 08 Oct 2006
Posts: 2806
Location: Newcastle-upon-Tyne
PostPosted: Tue Aug 19, 08 11:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote    

The 'spare wire' doesn't trouble me too much - it is the 'lie' of the wire which bothers me! It always seems to bend/curl the wrong way!

BahamaMama



Joined: 21 Sep 2006
Posts: 2315
Location: Away with the fairies
PostPosted: Tue Aug 19, 08 12:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote    

I have heard that you can steam or soak it briefly in hot water to soften the wire - but I have not dared try that yet.

KrisWW



Joined: 21 Jul 2008
Posts: 51
Location: Southern most South Yorkshire
PostPosted: Tue Aug 19, 08 6:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote    

Yup, just dip the cable into hand-hot water and then straighten.

Personally, I find wooden or bamboo double pointed needles the best things for socks. Wrestling is easier when the wool doesn't keep trying to slide off the end of the needles! And after the first inch or so, things get much, much easier.

Keep at it, and you could end up with socks like this:


or this:



BahamaMama



Joined: 21 Sep 2006
Posts: 2315
Location: Away with the fairies
PostPosted: Tue Aug 19, 08 8:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote    

Ooooh!! I am not quite there yet.... but another sock related question, once you have tamed the double pointed needles and the wool has submitted, how do you prevent the stretched stitches that form 3 seams down the length of the ankle of the sock where you move from needle to needle?

I will never take another sock for granted and I am determined to finish this one!

And...I want to knit the heel and toe in a contrasting yarn, himself has a long and distinguished history of putting holes in heels and toes and I was wondering if I could knit the two strands together to reinforce these areas of high wear, or would it just be lumpy and uncomfortable?

wellington womble



Joined: 08 Nov 2004
Posts: 15027
Location: East Midlands
PostPosted: Tue Aug 19, 08 9:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote    

You just get better as you get more confident - you can either shift a stitch back and forth every so often, or make it a habit to make the stitches on each end of the needle a little tighter than normal. I use the join instead of stitch makers, so I just make the stictches before and after a little bit tighter, but mostly, you get better with practice!

KrisWW



Joined: 21 Jul 2008
Posts: 51
Location: Southern most South Yorkshire
PostPosted: Tue Aug 19, 08 11:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote    

Quote:
how do you prevent the stretched stitches that form 3 seams down the length of the ankle of the sock where you move from needle to needle?


After you've knit the second stitch on the needle, give the yarn a good tug tight - don't do it on the first stitch on the needle, as that just makes the ladder shift over a column. But for some reason, pulling tight after stitch #2 works brilliantly. And I have the sock on four needles, using the fifth to knit with. It means the yarn is only being pulled 90 degrees, instead of 120 degrees and I find that gives less of a ladder effect.

If all of that still isn't working, do what Womble suggests and knit a couple of stitches off the following needles - kind of shifts the ladder round a bit, and evens it out.

Quote:
I want to knit the heel and toe in a contrasting yarn... I was wondering if I could knit the two strands together to reinforce these areas


Of course you can, it would make for a good looking sock. There are also a number of ways of knitting the back of the heel or the heel flap, which makes for a thicker fabric. The one I use most often is:

Row 1 *Slip 1, k 1; rep from *.
Row 2 *Slip 1, p 1; rep from *.
Repeat Rows 1 and 2 until heel flap measures required length (or the right number of rows)

Or you can just slip 1 and purl the rest of the row for row two for a slightly easier and quicker way of knitting a sturdy heel.

Ok, shall stop rambling now. Am not completely knitting obsessed...

BahamaMama



Joined: 21 Sep 2006
Posts: 2315
Location: Away with the fairies
PostPosted: Wed Aug 20, 08 8:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote    

Thanks for the tips! I was losing heart a bit, but I am feeling fortified and ready to carry on (shame I am at work...)

dottyspots



Joined: 28 Jun 2007
Posts: 286
Location: South Yorks
PostPosted: Thu Aug 21, 08 10:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote    

I tend to move the 'end' stitches on dpns round to prevent laddering (which seems to work as well), if that makes sense. Your marker will move round too, but if you're using one atleast you'll still know where the beginning and end is.

I don't knit socks really (have done, but I suffer from second sock syndrome), but I do knit on dpns quite a lot - I prefer them to circular needles and have whopping long ones for knitting jumpers on too.

I'm rather in love with mine and if I can work out a way to knit a pattern in the round then I'll do it (anything to avoid sewing seams I really want to make more yoked jumpers for the same reason - I'd love to make some light ones (small gauge) in traditional Scandinavian patterns and add shaping to the waist etc, but to get them being fairly light I'd have to work on lighter yarn than such things are usually worked in and that would take time - I tend to knit and crochet small things because they're easier to get done with small children around.

Although sometimes seams are necessary, as in the hobby horse I'm crocheting, where I thought I'd crochet in the round, but the shaping just wasn't working as really it needs the seams to hold its shape better. So I've now knitted a horse's head shape and will make a second then add a 'gusset' piece in between them, I think that's going to work better. First side down, just another side, the gusset and the rod covering (I'm going to cover the rod in crochet too) to go *sigh* (hopefully I'll get it done for Yule!)

BahamaMama



Joined: 21 Sep 2006
Posts: 2315
Location: Away with the fairies
PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 08 3:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote    

My teeny tiny circular needle arrived and I successfully transferred my stitches across (eventually) and I started off full of hope. I hate that blasted needle, it is so teeny tiny that the pins are so short there is nothing to hold on to. I persevered, growled and struggled some more, then went back to dpns

dottyspots



Joined: 28 Jun 2007
Posts: 286
Location: South Yorks
PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 08 3:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote    

I just can't really get on with circulars, AFAIC dpns are the way to go

Mrs Fiddlesticks



Joined: 02 Nov 2004
Posts: 10460

PostPosted: Tue Aug 26, 08 4:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote    

I long to make socks but am still stuck on the very basic knitting with no shaping which I can't seem to get beyond partly cos I don't understand patterns beyond k1 p1. Is there any hope?


edited to add- now if you told me Exactly what to buy and bring to the fibre weekend could you at least start me off?

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