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Is small-scale crop rotation really that important? |
Yes, it's vital to stop your crops getting the lurgy. |
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63% |
[ 19 ] |
No, life's too short and anyway the allotment's too small. |
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36% |
[ 11 ] |
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Total Votes : 30 |
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robkb
Joined: 29 May 2009 Posts: 4205 Location: SE London
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tahir
Joined: 28 Oct 2004 Posts: 45425 Location: Essex
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robkb
Joined: 29 May 2009 Posts: 4205 Location: SE London
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tahir
Joined: 28 Oct 2004 Posts: 45425 Location: Essex
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Bodger
Joined: 23 May 2006 Posts: 13524
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earthyvirgo
Joined: 24 Aug 2007 Posts: 7972 Location: creating prints in the loft, Gerlan
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gythagirl
Joined: 18 Feb 2010 Posts: 1467 Location: Somerset
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Went
Joined: 19 Mar 2006 Posts: 6968
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gil Downsizer Moderator
Joined: 08 Jun 2005 Posts: 18409
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Posted: Tue Jan 24, 12 5:01 pm Post subject: |
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I'm sure you can get away with not rotating crops in the short term.
Or else a kind of abbreviated rotation.
For example, in one place with a smaller veg patch than here, I had half of it to spuds and the other half to the other three : brassicas, legumes, roots, plus whatever else. Within 'the other three' there was rotation, but not for spuds.
Dunno how long I could have carried on doing that before potato diseases happened.
There's more to the 4-course rotation than preventing disease, however; it's also to do with pH needs, fertility use/creation, weed suppression through the various plants' leaf canopies, soil structure and rooting requirements, and so on :
Spuds : dig soil over deeply and manure, which helps lower pH since potatoes like a pH of 5.5; lifting crop stirs up the soil again, and the growing of the spuds uses up soil fertility provided by the manure. Leaf canopy helps deter weeds.
Lime applied only if necessary (really acid soil) after lifting crop
Legumes : shallower-rooting so do not disturb the soil for the following year; leaf canopy not so dense so weeds will be an issue; will make own fertility and store it in root nodules, which can be left to break down in the soil to add fertility to the next crop
Apply lime in the autumn cos brassicas need it !
Brassicas : deeper rooting; need a firm soil to anchor the heavy tall ones, and so that they can heart up; need less acidity; can use the fertility generated by the legumes, no need for manure unless just a light top-dressing the following spring; leaf canopy quite good, so weeds a bit inhibited (good for the roots that follow).
Roots : do not need added fertility or some (e.g. carrots) will fork/fang; poor leaf canopy so weeds will grow, but will be reduced by spuds the next year; pH after brassicas is good for roots; the soil broken up after brassicas taken out is good for roots to grow in.
and so on, round the rotation.
Main thing to beware of is club root in brassicas, I reckon.
A lot of things can be put in wherever they will fit : chard, beetroot, spinach, perpetual spinach beet; and wherever there is sufficient fertility in the soil : salads, curcurbits. |
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Mr O
Joined: 13 Feb 2005 Posts: 5512 Location: Nova Scotia, Canada
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gardening-girl
Joined: 25 Feb 2009 Posts: 6024 Location: Somerset.
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NorthernMonkeyGirl
Joined: 10 Apr 2011 Posts: 4587 Location: Peeping over your shoulder
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Posted: Tue Jan 24, 12 5:14 pm Post subject: |
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On the one hand, it seems bleedin' obvious.
On the other hand, by the time I've allowed for what likes the sun, the shade, something to climb up, rocky soil, fine soil.....well, I can't move walls to allow for a rotation!
Also, according to this https://www.paseedsavers.org/images/Root%20Depth%20Diagram.jpg the roots of most plants will spread far beyond their patch, so they are all present in most of the soil anyway...
I think it's more valuable in monoculture/large scale crops/ where there is sufficient space/suitable conditions.... I intend to grow such a mixture that there is no monoculture |
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Andrea
Joined: 02 May 2005 Posts: 2260 Location: Portugal
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Andy B
Joined: 12 Jan 2005 Posts: 3920 Location: Brum
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Luath
Joined: 03 Dec 2009 Posts: 761
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