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Finished this today

 
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Rusticwood



Joined: 01 Dec 2009
Posts: 2125
Location: All over the South West
PostPosted: Mon Aug 24, 15 10:13 pm    Post subject: Finished this today  Reply with quote    

Ash flatbow with 42lb pull






Falstaff



Joined: 27 May 2009
Posts: 1014

PostPosted: Mon Aug 24, 15 10:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote    

THAT'S RATHER NICE !


dpack



Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 34285
Location: yes
PostPosted: Mon Aug 24, 15 10:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote    

nice work ,hope you will let us know how it works,ive not much experience of flat bows apart from modern laminate ones .

well done for choosing a reasonable draw weight i much prefer my 50lb yew and purple heart long bow to the 65lb thing with wheels and cogs n stuff and it shoots faster and flatter than the hi tec one did.

have you got or made arrows yet?matching the stick to the bow makes a lot of difference to performance,it might be worth trying a few different arrows before getting/making a quiverful.when testing arrows a good full length bracer is sensible as a broken one in the wrist is really nasty

Rusticwood



Joined: 01 Dec 2009
Posts: 2125
Location: All over the South West
PostPosted: Tue Aug 25, 15 9:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote    

Thanks gents.

Dpack the weight was what I was left after tillering.
Yes I have arrows and bracer both made by me as well
arrows are 50-55lb spine but still work well on 35 and 45lb longbows.
I have lighter ones which dont work as well but are ok with 28lb pull ( I bought them cheap when I started )


I'm going to try another one with the other half of the trunk later

dpack



Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 34285
Location: yes
PostPosted: Tue Aug 25, 15 10:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote    

i have a set of ash/goose that were made for the bow which are ok and look the part but they are a bit squirrely which reduces the delivered energy at the target and makes short or long range a bit messy and they are especially difficult in wind as they are quite fat compared to the carbon fiber 60lb ones might not be "traditional"but they are a far better choice for practical use these have a very strait and flat line over a big range of distances as well as converting more of the (very rapid)push into thump.

dpack



Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 34285
Location: yes
PostPosted: Tue Aug 25, 15 10:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote    

oops double again

Last edited by dpack on Tue Aug 25, 15 5:13 pm; edited 1 time in total

Treacodactyl
Downsizer Moderator


Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 25697
Location: Jumping on the bandwagon of opportunism
PostPosted: Tue Aug 25, 15 10:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote    

Rusticwood wrote:
I'm going to try another one with the other half of the trunk later


Do you have a pic of the trunk before you start? Just curious to see what it looks like.

Rusticwood



Joined: 01 Dec 2009
Posts: 2125
Location: All over the South West
PostPosted: Tue Aug 25, 15 2:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote    

I debarked it and started it at the same time as this one

Rusticwood



Joined: 01 Dec 2009
Posts: 2125
Location: All over the South West
PostPosted: Thu Sep 03, 15 5:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote    

I used it last night for the first time and it worked well.
flatish trajectory with the 50lb arrows with enough energy for a solid thub on target


the one on the left went into the wooden frame about 2 inches



dpack



Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 34285
Location: yes
PostPosted: Thu Sep 03, 15 7:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote    

flatish and terminal ballistic energy is a good indication of translating pull through push so i recon you have got the profiles right.

ash can be a bit sluggish at going back to strait losing a lot of the push for the pull in long bows ,the last ash long bow i tried was like a 25 with a 50 start, consistent but underpowered at the far end especially with the arrows it was provided with

iirc there are a few good woods for self flat bows that would not work very well in the usual long bow (Dshaped section .
so long as the stave is taken from exactly the right bit of the trunk to give the heart and sapwood in the right combo along full length quite a few timbers perform ok.

however if you want to make "special"bows of any style laminate the right woods to make the stave and the difference is spectacular

dpack



Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 34285
Location: yes
PostPosted: Thu Sep 03, 15 7:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote    

ps for some reason a beeswax and turpentine polish seems to make bows give a bit extra.

Chez



Joined: 13 Aug 2006
Posts: 35904
Location: The Hive of the Uberbee, Quantock Hills, Somerset
PostPosted: Thu Sep 03, 15 9:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote    

That's really beautiful.

Rusticwood



Joined: 01 Dec 2009
Posts: 2125
Location: All over the South West
PostPosted: Sat Sep 05, 15 8:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote    

Dpack I've been looking at laminating bows but at the moment I haven't got the space and time to try it but when I do ........
until then I'll just carry on with self bows.
this one has been danish oiled and waxed



Thanks Chez

dpack



Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 34285
Location: yes
PostPosted: Sat Sep 05, 15 9:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote    

i think the time getting the layers perfectly flat and making a jig to clamp them together is the tricky bit with laminating.

danish oil and wax is good,moisture in the timber can do horrible things to the springyness of a bow in use as well( as putting a twist in them in storage sometimes).

as can getting it hot and using it(sunny car etc )if one gets hot tis best to cool it off before stringing it .hot is ace as setting a new shape and in a hot used bow that can be a permanent drawn curve.

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