Preparing old paint work

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Preparing old paint work
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dpack

Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 45521
Location: yes

Posted: Mon Jan 11, 10 3:32 pm Post subject:

if it is flaky stripping back (electric hot air thingies work )will be best but a good scrape(a narrow blade gives an quicker job)and after sanding a good undercoat in 2 layers will be a good base for top coats
lead paint is slightly toxic but dust mask /hygine and a good vacuum cleaner will avoid most exposure

if it is a georgian building you may have chrome yellow or arsenic green paint which is a bit worse (use asbestos removal ppe)

old paint has put buns on my table many times ,considered advice is go back to the wood for best results but a sanding for a key,wash with sugar soap to de grease and using two coats of good (dulux trade )undercoat will look pretty good and last reasonably well

Gervase

Joined: 17 Nov 2004
Posts: 8655

Posted: Mon Jan 11, 10 3:48 pm Post subject:
An old-fashioned shavehook is surprisingly good at getting surfaces ready for sanding, and is ideally shaped to cope with mouldings. Sharpen the edges with a whetstone first and make sure they're free from nicks and burrs.

T.G

Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Posts: 7280
Location: Somewhere you're not

Posted: Mon Jan 11, 10 3:48 pm Post subject:
what dpack said but don't forget to lightly sand between coats

dpack

Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 45521
Location: yes

Posted: Mon Jan 11, 10 4:26 pm Post subject:
a sharp shavehook is a very useful tool

Treacodactyl
Downsizer Moderator

Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 25795
Location: Jumping on the bandwagon of opportunism

Posted: Mon Jan 11, 10 5:30 pm Post subject:

It's difficult to use a scraper as with all the mouldings on the doors, that's the main reason for not stripping them (tried stripping once). I'm not keen on dry sanding as, even with a very good vacuum there's still fine paint dust everywhere - that's why I use wet & dry paper for sanding and special pads a bit like the plastic pan scourers to remove the flaking paint, grime etc.

The sanding goes fine but then the new paint seems to lift the old.

Perhaps I've not feathered the old paint edges properly in the past so I've taken care to do so this time.

alice

Joined: 18 Feb 2006
Posts: 2820

Posted: Mon Jan 11, 10 5:44 pm Post subject:
Rip it out. Replace with new. Life's too short. Trust me.

T.G

Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Posts: 7280
Location: Somewhere you're not

Posted: Mon Jan 11, 10 5:45 pm Post subject:
nitromorse

Treacodactyl
Downsizer Moderator

Joined: 28 Oct 2004
Posts: 25795
Location: Jumping on the bandwagon of opportunism

Posted: Mon Jan 11, 10 6:11 pm Post subject:

alice wrote:

Rip it out. Replace with new. Life's too short. Trust me.

The picture rails and skirting is mostly fine, just needs a good clean and paint. It's the doors and frames I'm having most of the problems with and I'm not replacing them, especially as they are original 1930's ones and fit perfectly in the house.

I'm not keen on chemical strippers either, I've not found them that quick and much of the paintwork doesn't need stripping. It would be quicker to get the doors dipped but then they'd look good and the frames not.

alice

Joined: 18 Feb 2006
Posts: 2820

Posted: Mon Jan 11, 10 6:30 pm Post subject:
You'll just have to suck the mop then. If you want to keep them there's no 'easy' way, just old fashioned hard work I'm afraid. I've never had much joy from chemical strippers either. Not worth the mess IMO.

crofter

Joined: 11 Feb 2007
Posts: 2252

Posted: Mon Jan 11, 10 8:36 pm Post subject:

Treacodactyl wrote:

The sanding goes fine but then the new paint seems to lift the old.

Perhaps I've not feathered the old paint edges properly in the past so I've taken care to do so this time.

Possibly a chemical reaction between old/new paint? Try a different kind of new paint?

stumbling goat

Joined: 20 Jan 2009
Posts: 1990

Posted: Mon Jan 11, 10 9:07 pm Post subject:
i have struggled with removing gloss from unprepared old gloss on architrave. i have opted for removal of the timber and replacement with laminated mdf. no preparation. no painting. sg

dpack

Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 45521
Location: yes

Posted: Tue Jan 12, 10 9:52 pm Post subject:

one of the problems with the old flaking off under the new is the solvents from the new paint loosen old layers particularly the layer between linseed oil and alkyd based paints (early 1970's usually)and any layers without good prep ,if the old layers are compromised with chips replacement or stripping is the best way to get a nice finish with permanance
do it right ,do it once
sorry but a good result can be hard work
for stripping i use heat on flat things and nitromors on mouldings
always work carefully and learn each collection of paint as you remove it ,every stick is different and needs a slightly different method
40 grit alo2 paper is ace for a brutal sanding

dpack

Joined: 02 Jul 2005
Posts: 45521
Location: yes

Posted: Tue Jan 12, 10 9:54 pm Post subject:
ps if replacing mouldings the extra cash to do like for like rather than new for old is worth it to get a good finish

T.G

Joined: 13 Sep 2009
Posts: 7280
Location: Somewhere you're not

Posted: Wed Jan 13, 10 12:11 am Post subject:

alice wrote:

You'll just have to suck the mop then.

what a great saying, never heard/read it before and i must say i'll be using it

ian1

Joined: 12 Dec 2004
Posts: 314
Location: essex

Posted: Wed Jan 13, 10 10:59 am Post subject:

as dpack has said it sounds like your new paint could be reacting with old, you may find using a waterbased undercoat would solve this, As for stripping i normally use "peel away" and would never ever use heatguns or blow torches on anything i cant take outside to strip.
if your at all worried about lead in paint your working on you can buy lead testing kits from most paint suppliers (think i may have seen them in b&q)

oh and on mouldings a pumice stone and water work great

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